4 hours before jumping on the ferry home after 4 months in the van. Groundswell arrives early, 9 out including me, double overhead steamrollers…
On the way back from Ericieras to Santander to get the ferry I thought I’d swing by Mundaka just incase a little sign of the new swell was showing early. The swell was forecast to hit that night. I got there about midday and couldn’t believe my eyes. A brisk offshore grooming the 6-8 wave sets as they marched in, and marched in, and marched in. 8 guys in the water. Soon to be 9. On the last day of my trip, after countless days of waking up thinking how lucky I am… I seemed to have hit the jackpot. 2hrs surfing and 2 hrs driving later, still dripping as I entered the terminal wondering if i’d missed the boat, I let out a wild hoot. I boarded the ferry with the drawbridge closing behind me, last one on. Half of me wanted to miss the boat. The forecast was set for the next few days… I’m not sure I’ve ever been so stoked.
I have so much more content to add to this website. And it will happen. Over time…
I thought this experimental short film by friend Tom German was tip top. Great use of soundtrack vs soundless film stock…
Shaped by Adrian Phillips of Fluid Juice. It’s easy and fun to ride and it rides well in bigger surf as well as small, the tail is bladed out a little and has quite a bit of lift for a log. The nose is flatter. This board has roll all the way through into slight vee off the tail with pinched 50/50 rails, quite characteristic of a hull, but not as extreme and so is a joy to ride, rolling easily from rail to rail unlike heavier logs out there. It has a white tint with 6 oz glass bottom and double 6 oz deck.. and a fin box (fin not included)
It’s a fun board, hardly used and would be ideal as a first longboard or for someone wanting to add a singlefin over 9′ to their shortboard quiver. It wpuld also be great for a girl as it’snot too heavy and under 23″ wide which for a longboard makes it a little easier to wrap your arm around.
Dimensions off the top of my head are 9’3″ x 22 7/8″ x 3″
There is a certain lean towards motorcycles within some surf subcultures at the moment. And I seem to be in on it. After spending two months on a bike hunting waves in Indo last spring and seeing what the guys over at Deus were doing I decided to bite the bullet and get my license. Am I just following trends or am I opening my eyes to new ways to get my kick. I guess that’s for anyone to work out but I’m pretty damn excited, now… if I could only find the key to my SR500… damn
Across the Sea Sea Sideways was filmed during a period of time where I was unable to surf due to a knee injury. This downtime led me to explore the medium of Super8 film and spend time documenting some of the surfing going on around me at the time. The kind of surfing I would normally immerse myself in was now available for me to document in a way I thought best reflected in the moment. 2004
Limited edition of 100 numbered copies.
Below is part 5. You can watch the entire film in 5 parts here.
Groundhog day at desert point break, near trip anchor point, Dakhla, December 2011